The owner of this bike has liked distinctive designs for years. I wrote notes on the service tickets on some of the stuff he tried to put together himself that instructed the mechanic "do NOT try to ride this bike." We let the customer know that we would do what he asked us to do on those early death traps, but that no one would put their own safety at risk to see if it actually worked.
One home-made chopper he brought in didn't even have a headset. The fork was just stuffed through the head tube. Foreshadowing of a sort.
Years later, he still likes outlandish-looking (and scary handling) bikes. A year or two ago we assembled a stretch cruiser chopper for him that he had spec'd himself from internet sources. Late last year, on the day after Christmas, he brought us the pieces he had collected for his next dream bike: an e-bike stretch cruiser with a springer fork.
He bought everything separately: frame from one source, fork from another, motor kit somewhere else... It was the start of ski season, so we didn't have a chance to dig into it all right away. More than a month later we finally had a quiet spell where I could start to fit a few parts together.
Aiming for easy stuff first, I installed the bottom bracket and crank. Stuck the rear wheel in the dropouts. Test fitted the front wheel to the fork. He bought a motorized front wheel, which he said would fit the dropouts. I was able to confirm this.
Ski season picked up again, so I pushed the bike aside. When I got to it again, I set up to install the headset. He'd brought the bike with the fork stuck through the head tube, but without the headset cups installed. The springer fork has a heavy aluminum bracket that overhangs the head tube to hold the top end of the springs. This obscured the head tube itself. When I removed it, I discovered that the head tube had been crushed.
The whole front of the head tube had been flattened. But this is steel. We may not be dead yet.
First of all, I contacted him to let him know. "Oh, yeah," he said. "I forgot to tell you about that." Apparently, it was shipping damage.
"You should have gotten warranty!" I said.
"That's what my dad said," he answered.
Too late now. And he would probably have had to box up the oversize frame and ship it back. Whatever. I told him we would see what we could do.
I started experimenting with different items to use as a drift mounted to the headset press. I also contacted my friend Diane in Orlando. She is an ingenious machinist who has been working on bikes for more than half a century. She has built frames and fabricated some form of just about every part. She had already made a drift that fits the headset press, and shipped it to me on loan.
Many hours of work later, the head tube was round enough to accept the headset cups. I fit the fork.
The steerer tube was too short. It's a one-inch threaded steerer. I went online to see if anyone sold a springer fork with a one-inch, threaded steerer that was longer than what we had. It was nearly impossible to find anyone listing the measurement at all. Most of the forks were 1 1/8-inch threadless. It looked like we had the longest fork of its type. If we couldn't get a fork to fit the head tube, we were going to have to make the head tube fit the fork.
A tool called a head tube facer uses cutters on a rod threaded through the head tube to cut down a small amount from either end, to assure that the ends are parallel. This allows the bearings to turn smoothly. Cut a little, cut a lot. I spent hours, shaving down that head tube like I was digging my way out of prison with a spoon handle. Eventually I had removed about 12 millimeters altogether, to get enough steerer to protrude to fit not only the headset parts but that chunky aluminum bracket for the springs.

Once we could complete the routine assembly tasks, I had to figure out how to install the components of the motor system. Because the frame uses mostly curved tubes, there were no flat, straight areas for the battery bracket that didn't lead to other problems, like interfering with the cranks, or rubbing on the chain. The bracket supplied by the battery manufacturer was drilled for water bottle bolts, but the receivers in the battery box itself left half of its length unsupported. I had to devise a support bracket to allow me to mount the battery in the only usable location on the bike.
Fabricating the bracket required buying some hardened drill bits so that I could drill the plates to match up with the hole in the back of the battery box.
The pedal assist sensor the customer bought was designed for a small bottom bracket shell, not the big, one-piece crank type that the frame had. We had to hunt down a sensor for the larger shell. Then the sensor ring that goes on the crank itself isn't a great fit, but that was better than no fit at all.
The sensor itself came with a different style of plug than the original sensor intended for use with the motor kit he had. I couldn't find an adapter cable to bridge the difference, so I had to snip the end off of the new cable and graft on the plug from the original one. This included salvaging contacts that were not meant to be undone and refastened. Somehow, this actually worked.
Next I had to figure out the cable runs. I only had specific lengths to work with, and no second chance if a broke anything. The harness on the control box had plugs we wouldn't be using, so I had to separate those and bundle them safely in case they get used in the future. The customer had gotten brake levers with his kit, but he was only going to run a coaster brake on the rear wheel. The front wheel -- the one with the motor -- has disc mounts on the left side, as is normal, but the stupid fork has its caliper mounting tabs on the right fork blade. It also has posts for a rim brake, but the customer didn't want to bother with that. This means that he won't have a brake cutout on the motor. Fortunately, his intended route with the bike is entirely flat, using the local rail trail for his commute.
The motor kit includes a throttle, so he won't really have to pedal at all, but I got the pedal assist to work anyway. He had wanted it enough to order the new sensor kit.
The control box presented another challenge. It needed to be close enough for all the wires to reach, mounted solidly, in a protected location if possible.
My colleague George sketched up a simple and effective concept. I made a day-off visit to the hardware store for the U-bolts and other bits. The bolts are cushioned with shrink tubing. The box stands off slightly from the seat tube so that airflow over the cooling fins is unrestricted. Because the chain line runs right next to the box, I fabricated a bracket to deflect the chain when it bounces over that way. The customer did not get the chain guard usually included with these frames. He might want to track one down. The chain is very long, so it has a lot of latitude to waggle around. It not only comes within a couple of millimeters of the control box, it also almost rubs on the rear tire.
No notes on the seat. It's perfectly on brand.
Even the handlebar wasn't simple. The apehangers he ordered don't fit the stem. I shimmed them in. It's a perfectly legitimate procedure for which nice shims are machined in a number of sizes representing the standard increments. Of course this setup didn't span the standard increments, but I found something. He can order larger-diameter bars, but the bike is usable in the meantime. He won't be driving fast or cornering hard on it. Not more than once, anyway.
The biggest worry is that the customer will be severely shocked by the final price. Figuring straight time at our posted hourly rate, he's into us for more than $1,700 in labor alone. I shaved that down to just over $1,400, but then there's 50-some-odd in parts. We may end up eating this thing.
"Why didn't you warn him?" you might say. Our only choice was to pull the plug when we saw the head tube, and just send him out to buy a new frame. So he'd be out whatever he paid for the first one, plus several hundred for another one, plus shipping, plus the labor to fit the head tube to the fork of his choice, plus all of the design and fabrication time that went into fitting the motor kit. Yes, he could buy a pre-made e-bike stretch cruiser for $2,000-$3,000, but none of the ones I saw looked very close to what he chose for himself.
Building a bike on a frame is always more expensive than buying a bike already factory spec'd and assembled, especially if you have to pay for someone else's skilled labor. When you really depart from any kind of plan or standard, you need to have your own ingenuity or pay for someone else's.
You might quibble that everything is just stuck on the outside of this frame. If you're lucky enough to know someone like my friend Diane, or any other mad genius tool user, you might get some sweet custom work for the same price or lower -- Diane does not have the same shop overhead that a retail business has -- but you need to live near her, or travel to her, or ship all of your stuff to her, in a time when shipping prices themselves are staggering. If we had drilled the frame to put battery mounts directly on the top tube, for instance, we would have either had to use rivet nuts (lame) or properly brazed them in, requiring repainting afterward. $$$. The same goes for drilling in for cable guides or brazing something on outside without installing a threaded receiver into the frame.
I don't know anyone locally with the same collection of skills and career bikiness that Diane has.
Anyway, we accomplished the desired task: it's a complete bike, as rideable as its awkward design will allow.
On some level, we do want to give our services away. But we can't. The entire resources of the business contributed to successful completion of the task he requested. All of the knowledge, and all of the collected miscellany hung and piled around the place represent years of experience and a warehouse of potentially useful elements.